Monday, September 24, 2007

Segovia, Spain


This weekend I took a day trip to Segovia with a couple friends. After a third straigh day of 4 hours sleep, my friend Charlie comes beaming into my room at 9am to tell me its time to go. So we catch a 10 o'clock train for Segovia and 2 hours later find ourselves looking at (and later climbing) a Roman aquaduct, the Alcázar of Segovia, and the biggest cathedral in town.


A view of the Cathedral of Segovia from within the courtyard.


The organ inside the cathedral.


Overlooking part of Segovia with my friend Charlie.


Inside the Alcázar of Segovia.


A view from the Alcázar.


On the terrace of the Alcázar.


"Nice to meet you!"


At the end of the day we took a walk along the aquaduct, which stretches across the town. When we reached the end, the top of the wall was just 10 or 15 feet off the ground so Charlie and I flung eachother up and found ourselves on top of Segovia's roman aquaduct.


The views were much better from the top!


After our climbing adventure we settled down for cerveza in the plaza to the front of the aquaduct before heading home.


Here's a look at the countryside between Madrid and Segovia...

Music in Madrid!

Outside the Royal Palace a man plays the accordion!

Wednesday, September 19, 2007

Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía


I love weekends in Madrid. Aside from a great nightlife, the days can be spent touring some of the world's most renown works of art for free. Last weekend I visited the Reina Sofía Art Museum, which boasts 2 floors of modern art including Picasso's, Guernica, and Dalí's, The Great Masturbator. The museum completes Madrid's so-called Golden Triangle of Art, which consists of the city's three most impressive museums.

For a little history of the museum (complements of Wikipedia)...

The Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía (MNCARS) is the official name of Spain's national museum of 20th century art (informally shortened to the Museo Reina Sofía, Queen Sofia Museum, or simply The Sofia). The museum was officially inaugurated on September 10, 1992 and is named for Queen Sofia of Spain. It is located in Madrid, near the Atocha train and metro stations, at the southern end of the so-called Golden Triangle of Art (located along the Paseo del Prado and also comprising the Museo del Prado and the Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza).


GUERNICA (1937) (Pablo PICASSO)
Oil on canvas (349 x 776 cm)
Reina Sofía National Museum

This is more a cartoon on canvas than a picture. A cartoon without text because everything "is written" in this image. Picasso (later affiliated to the French Communist Party) was a defendant of the Spanish Republic, which made him a loyal artist, well-know all over the world.
In fact, in January 1937, the picture was commissioned by the Republican government to decorate the Spanish stand at the 1937 Universal Exhibition in Paris, with a clear propaganda context. That's why the painting is so big: it was to be admired by a lot of people at the same time in a scene that wasn't like a showing.

Two months later the terrible bombing of Guernica took place (26th April 1937) and it was turned into the ideal subject for the picture. But curiously and thanks to the painter's great ability there are no signs of war in it, no bombs, nor soldiers or guns. The main subjects are from bullfighting: horse and bull in a moment of bullfighting and a fugitive mother with her dead son in her arms. As usual of Picasso, his private life is reflected in his artistic themes. In this case and due to its political undertone, it caused great controversy, though years later this painting became a pacifist manifesto.

Picasso took a month in finishing the picture, which was made in black and grey tones to emphasize dramatism and highlight the message. Short of time, he used sketches from his previous works to get the painting finished quickly. His partner at that time, photographer Dora Maar, took photographs of the process of development of the painting.

Today, this painting is fundamental to Modern Art and anyone who looks at it closely cannot be left feeling indifferent.


THE GREAT MASTURBATOR (1929) (Salvador DALÍ)
(El Gran Masturbador)
Oil on canvas (110 x 150 cm.)
Reina Sofía National Museum

This picture formally contains characteristics of all his surrealistic painting: the whole balanced unity despite the large number of subjects and the huge space that joins sky and ground in the distance.
Dalí was himself surreal, which allowed him to portray his own life and all his obsessions in his works.
One of them was sex. A deep and good judge of Freud's theories, Dalí didn´t hide his personality nor his problems, which he showed both in his paintings and his interviews. This open personality made the difference between him and other surreal artists.
In this picture everything, more or less, has its own ambiguous meaning.
The central subject is his self portrait - which he would repeat in many other pictures, very stylized but recognizable: the big nose, the yellowish color and the large face. It seems clear that the alegory´s main character is he himself, and his figure appears surrounded by several objects with mixed meanings. The grasshopper, an animal that caused him terror, filled with ants that signify death. A fish hook as family ties, the lion as sexual desire, stones as his past, a lonely figure as solitude...
Masturbation appears in modernist style with the woman who emerges from his portrait, her face close to the male genitals hidden in close-fitting underpants. Near the woman is an iris which simbolizes purity - a complicated way of defining masturbation as the purest sexual relationship.
Gala appears here again, as frequently occurred, in this case in the embraced couple under the main figure.
In this style of self-portrait, Dalí used large eyelashes to depict his hope of making his dreams come true.

Friday, September 14, 2007

Palacio Real de Madrid

I made it to the Royal Palace last week, which ranks among the top in the world. Some say that only the Royal Palaces of Vienna and Versailles top that of Madrid.

For a little history (complements Wikipedia)...

The site of the palace dates from a 10th-century fortress, called mayrit, constructed as an outpost by Mohammed I, Emir of Córdoba and inherited after 1036 by the independent Moorish Kingdom of Toledo. After Madrid fell to Alfonso VI of Castile in 1085, the edifice was only rarely used by the kings of Castile. In 1329, King Alfonso XI of Castile convoked the cortes of Madrid for the first time. Philip II moved his court to Madrid in 1561.

The Antiguo Alcázar ("Old Castle") was built on the location in the 16th century. It burned on December 24, 1734; King Philip V ordered a new palace built on the same location. Construction spanned from 1738 to 1755, according to the designs of Giovanni Battista Sacchetti in cooperation with Ventura Rodríguez, Francesco Sabatini, and Scirmento. The new palace was occupied by Carlos III in 1764.

Another look at the Royal Palace.


This the Cathedral of Almudena, which faces the south side of the Royal Palace and is equally impressive from the exterior (I didn't made it inside).


I enjoyed this one. A sparrow atop a statue outside the Royal Palace.

Saturday, September 8, 2007

Museo del Prado


With no class last week I had a chance to visit several famous sites in Madrid. The first was the Prado Museum (Museo del Prado), which is renowned as being the largest art gallery in the world. It houses more than 8,600 paintings, of which they exhibit less than 2,000 because of lack of space available. It has the world's finest collections of works by Spain's Diego Velázquez and Francisco Goya, as well as of Dutch painter Hieronymus Bosch among others. I have included a few of the most famous works along with explanations compliments of www.spanisharts.com.


The Shootings of May 3rd (Francisco de GOYA)
(Los Fusilamientos del 3 de Mayo)
Painted: 1814.
ORIGINAL SIZE: 104.72" X 135.82"
The picture was painted by commission of the King together with "The Charge of the Mamelukes" to perpetuate the Madrid people´s stand against the forces of Napoleon. Possibly they were made from sketches drawn by witnesses at the shootings. Both the night and symmetrical composition of the subjects emphasize the drama: those being shot with their faces looking ahead, filled with feeling, and the soldiers from behind, depicting evil's machines.


The Clothed Maja (Francisco de GOYA)
(La Maja Vestida)
Painted 1797-98.
ORIGINAL SIZE: 37.52" X 74.80"
It repeats the naked Maja's composition, both in structure and in the model's position. But changes are clear in colours and general atmosphere. Goya is believed to have used a different model, more stylized in this case.


The Naked Maja (Francisco de GOYA)
(La Maja Desnuda)
Painted 1797 / 98.
ORIGINAL SIZE: 38.18" X 74.80"
At first it was called "gypsies", matching the clothed Maja. It creates a new nudity form, later followed by other painters, specially in France. Speculations about models for this work have been very numerous: nowadays it's believed that he used several women, ones for the face and others for the body. Goya's use of light is really splendid, obtaining an intimate and tinged atmosphere.


The Maids of Honour (Diego VALÁZQUEZ de Silva)
(Las Meninas)
Painted around 1656-57.
ORIGINAL SIZE: 125" X 108.6"
This painting is considered one of the worlds greatest works of art , the secret is in creating something revealing in an everyday scene. The painter of "the air" reflects his own workday: in the mirror on the far wall is the reflection of the King and Queen , which is the theme of the painting he is working on, the Princess is looking at her parents, surrounded by her aids and the loyal family dog near by.


The Garden of Earthly Delights (Hieronymus BOSCH)
(El Jardin de las Delicias)
Painted: 1500.
ORIGINAL SIZE: 81.1" X 151.9"
An exceptional trilogy, a prodigy in myths and mundane traditions with imagination, plagued with a climate of fantasies that seem inexhaustible. It is a painting that has successive situations that beg the onlookers´ contemplations.


The Three Graces (Peter Paul RUBENS)
(Las Tres Gracias)
ORIGINAL SIZE: 87" X 123.6"
Represents a group of three women, nudes in the forest, which is inspired by models of ancient times of classical Italian culture, a common characteristic of Rubens' works. Possibly a later work of the master, where he shows a modification by adding turpentine to his paint, that implies more fluidity to his colour tones.


Adam (Albrecht DÜRER)
(Adán)
Painted: 1507.
ORIGINAL SIZE: 82.2"x31.8"
This diptych, which comprises Adam on the left and Eve on the right, was painted by Dürer on his return to Nuremburg after his second trip to Italy. The composition of both subjects is similar. He has Adam standing motionless, holding a branch of the tree of the forbidden fruit in his left hand. It is interesting to note the impressive distribution of light and shade in his face, the angle of his head and the detail of his hair.


Eve (Albrecht DÜRER)
(Eva)
Painted: 1507.
ORIGINAL SIZE: 82.2"x31.4"
In the composition of Eve although similar to that of Adam, the figure of her is more dynamic, owing to the forward position of her right leg as the snake offers her the forbidden fruit.
On the sign which hangs on the branch of the tree, you can read "Albert Dürer, German, painted this after the childbirth of the Virgin in the year of our Lord 1507"

Madrid 14-sept-07

Midnight in Madrid in Plaza Santa Ana.


With two of the women who live in the same flat as me. I have now been in Madrid for nearly 2 weeks and have enjoyed my time here. I am living near the Argüelles metro station, which is central to the city and near the univeristy, with 9 other flat mates. They are an interesting bunch. Most of them are Spaniards, which is good, but they are considerably older. The 2 women that live in the rooms next to mine are over fifty and I think the youngest person besides myself is 26. They are all quite friendly though, and I think next month a couple Spanish students will be moving in.


A look at my bedroom.


With friends from Italy and the US. It has been great meeting people from so many different places around the world. I've met already met a ton of Italians, Germans, French, and British people as well people from Columbia, Czech, Belgium, Poland, Russia, and Singapore.


The lifestyle here is quite different as well. The streets are empty before nine in the morning, most stores close for siesta from 2-5, and all the plazas are packed with people by midnight. I began a language intensive course this week and like the professor. I think the dificulty level is just right and it is nice being surrounded with other students at the same speaking level as me.

Monday, September 3, 2007

Tokyo 6.14.07


The last stop in the Asian adventure was Tokyo for a few days of tourism. I had the chance to see my Uncle Ken, who made the trip all the way up from the base of Mt. Fuji, where he serves as a colonel in the Marines, to visit. It was great to catch up and learn more about his experience in Japan. During the other three days nine of us toured the city, seeing the the Tokyo tour along the way and getting a good taste for the nightlife.


A view from the Tokyo Tower fo the the city, which is the second largest in the world (with 34 million people), behind Mexico City.


Here are few of the 34 million. This square filled with people between every light change for several hours during the day.


Another look from Shibuya, one of the main bar districts.





One morning we went to the fish market (around 4!, when the sun rises) and saw all the action. This picture was taken in one of the warehouses full of venders buying fish for the day. We never saw the fish being cut (which would have been the best part) but it was still interesting to see the shear volume of fish hauled in each day.








Live fish for sale as well.


Tokyo was definately a lively city. Every ex-pat we met loved it there, and most decided to extend their stay a couple years. It was interesting I might add meeting several Brits. One guy explained to me that Japanese and Chinese are both popular languages of study in the UK in highere education, as I suppose many Brits get a good grasp of other languages in their younger years. Definately a city worth visiting again!